自驾赣皖游第五天第七站:婺源篁岭
自驾赣皖游的这几日拔了不少草,也解了不少惑,搞明白了黄山为什么比五岳还出名,宏村、西递、呈坎到底谁更美,景德镇的“无语佛”是喜还是悲,现在该轮到江西婺源的篁岭了,网上有人说它是“中国最美乡村”,也有人说照片骗人,门票贵得像抢劫,篁岭到底怎么样?我就亲自去验验。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLWF4ZWd1cGF5NWsvYzg2ZDIyNmM1NTY1NGI3YjhkOTliMTIyOTQxMTNmNzF+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPSUyQlMlMkJpZUpNbVJNZ29xUjdaRzcyQTlVdHpudkklM0Q.webp)
从景德镇到篁岭车程大概1个半小时,一路杭瑞高速,车很少。进了婺源江湾,山间间或的村落无一不是白墙黛瓦的徽派建筑,这里虽属于江西,却感觉回到了皖南。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvOWJmZmZkMGJkM2Q3NDc0NWI3ZjEyY2ExNmNlMzE0MTd+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPTFMMDhzck9aM0ZST1NDbHhjVTV2M0pzQmVJbyUzRA.webp)
事实上在长达上千年的时间里,婺源确实都曾是古徽州的一部分,所以在建筑、文化、习俗等方面,如今赣东北的婺源仍与皖南一脉相承。民国时期婺源第一次被划入江西时,当地和安徽人民还掀起了持续13年的“婺源回皖”运动,安徽人胡适亲自发声:“徽州人岂肯把朱夫子的出生地划归江西,他们还把二程先生的祖先还算是徽州人呢!”
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvYjBjYmY0ZTcyY2U0NDE5Mzk3MmQ3ZTFmMjEzN2I1M2Z+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPW9POG1UQ3o4dHI0WWJGUHRabFVIeW4zSnJDOCUzRA.webp)
不过从地貌上看,婺源与皖南之间被绵延的五龙山脉所阻隔,整个古徽州虽群山蜿蜒,但南部的婺源比北部的黟县和休歙要更加多山多丘陵,婺源的篁岭则是坐落在海拔1200多米的石耳山山坡之上,所以今天进入篁岭景区的方式有两种:一种是坐索道,另一种是如果订了景区内的住宿,可以选择自驾开车上山。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvOTVmNWQwYjQ3MjI3NGU0N2EwNDA1ZWQ2YTBhOTZjMWF+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPUdXTWZTazJFJTJCVXBoMFUxUGRGVzlveXRBRm9jJTNE.webp)
我们大老远跑来,决定在景区里住宿一晚,老爸老妈腿脚不好,所以开车上山,这样不用在索道处排队,因为旺季时要排很久。在山下接待中心办好入住,开车到山上的停车场后会有电瓶车来接人和行李。不过住宿的价格是真贵,尤其旺季时,关于价格我最后再说,因为如果你去的当天天气很好,根本不用住一晚。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvNDY2N2YwMWU1OWJmNDk5MTgxYjljOTY1N2Q3Y2NjM2V+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPTl5WWo4MXdpTmRxVFlvUnNWMUpJaE5TaVQ4WSUzRA.webp)
景区门票+缆车套票145元,但如果单买门票135元,单买往返缆车120元,所以这么一来肯定都会买套票,门票的卖法有点套路。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvMDMxNzM0YTNjYmZkNDJmMTllOWExYWQzMzk4OGNhMzl+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPTJ4QndVTXcxM2tTQzZxcldWTzFPS01LTEhzcyUzRA.webp)
篁岭是古徽州海拔最高的古村落之一,建村于明代中叶,有500多年历史。坐落在山林密布间的村子一边是梯田叠翠,一边是展开如扇形的房屋,依山而建的局部让本就参差的马头墙更加错落有致,五彩斑斓的农作物被晒在家家户户顶层窗外的横梁之上,形成了著名的“篁岭晒秋”,确是“窗衔篁岭千叶匾,门聚幽篁万亩田”。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvYTM0ZWY1MTY3Y2EwNDgxNGJiYzg4YmQ3MzRmYjRhYWZ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPTVlM0xuUUdwTDltaXBwQUNyMGJIZnJTSVlEcyUzRA.webp)
虽说我多花了一晚昂贵的住宿费,但也搞明白了为什么来过的人评价差距如此之大,因为篁岭到底美不美真要看老天的脸色,如果遇上好天气,那就像资质上佳的女人开了美颜,但如果天气不好,就像女人的脸上被蒙了一层灰。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvYTk4YzQ1MjI3OWEyNDUyYzg3ZWViYTZiN2FlZDY1MDN+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPUMyTENEUDVub3B1aDhUUFl6dEklMkJRUUZaeHEwJTNE.webp)
我们当天下午到的时候是阴天,篁岭的景色就逊色很多,但第二天太阳出来了,村子的颜值立马飙升。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvNjQwMGUzNDViZTZiNDljOThmZDk3MDhlN2ZiZWNmYzh+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPU5IQmhybktFWm1sNng4aGZucGhJVSUyRk55VEw4JTNE.webp)
不过篁岭这个古村已经不像皖南的村子那样依旧住着当地人,这里已是个纯粹的景区,村子里的村民已迁到了外面,只是少数人还在这里打工,每天摆放、整理这些晒盘以供游客拍照,篁岭若没有晒盘,将比没有太阳更可怕。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvYTdiY2Y5YWMwZTUyNDA0Zjk1ZDk3NGYxYjFmMTgyMWF+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPXdCSVg3ZzFUTjhpRDBFakFUQTNQd1pvVkZPUSUzRA.webp)
村子里的房子也都是经过精心修补和改造的,除了作为景观,有些是酒店客房,有些是商铺,有些是专供游客欣赏美景和拍照的打卡点,比如这个1-3层的晒工坊,就是看晒秋最美的地方之一,因为这里是村子建筑的最高点。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvOTNlMzIyZjI5YzdhNDgzNjkyZWEyNDRkNDFmOGU3NWN+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPWZUVHFrd0wzb3BkTksxSWxMREMyQVBqa0VnayUzRA.webp)
所以其实想到篁岭看晒秋并不非要等秋季,一年四季这里都在“晒秋”,只是秋天的林木叶子会变色,会有种层林尽染的韵味。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvZTE0YzlkZTNlOGYxNGM3ZWFiOWU2MmQ5ZDVjNGQ4YmR+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPTI3eWFlWkw3R1B5RXElMkY1JTJCczBSUDV0QmpLT28lM0Q.webp)
晒工坊附近有几个拍照很出片的打卡点,比如晒工坊观景台、摄影吧、五桂堂,但人都很多,经常要排队拍照,其实还有几处比较隐秘的地方,人少景美,我一一和大家分享下。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvZjVhYzJjYWU1Yjk4NDQxOTk0MjBkMjAwMmZlMWU3NmF+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPU5SaTAxTnh6QnZwYWdsRlZvb3FsZWNkVHk1ZyUzRA.webp)
另外因为整个村子在山间,很多攻略介绍先走天街的打卡路线是有点费腿的,因为后面去拍照的打卡点要一路上台阶,如果你不喜欢爬台阶,或像我一样带着老人,其实有个懒人路线。不管你是缆车上来还是开车上来,不远处就是山上的游客中心(也是办理退房的地方),里面有个直梯,坐直梯上楼,这样出来就是与晒工坊平行的高度了,顺着平路一直走就是晒工坊了,之后去的打卡点都是一路下坡了。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMjYtc2lnbi50b3V0aWFvaW1nLmNvbS90b3MtY24taS02dzlteTBrc3ZwLzkwOWUxNTNiODBiODQ3MjJhZjY3NmMwNGRkYWYxNzcxfm5vb3AuaW1hZ2U/X2l6PTU4NTU4JmZyb209YXJ0aWNsZS5wY19kZXRhaWwmbGszcz05NTMxOTJmNCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTcxOTY5OTIxMCZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT1LRTBDOWdJJTJCajlxcyUyQmt4T0NacEZGSU1FdkJJJTNE.webp)
这两张照片是第二天太阳出来时在摄影吧拍的,空气更透亮,颜色也更鲜亮,所以有了太阳的篁岭晒秋确实还挺美的。上午有些地方还有炊烟袅袅,拍出来更有感觉,但其实并没有人家住这里。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvODY4ZGZkMDc0NGNhNDM1Y2IzNzc0Y2UwMTg5Y2FiOGZ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPU1Hamt3RGhxMHpjblJscllxZDJoeG1OTUQ3USUzRA.webp)
五桂堂原本是展示婺源的建筑和精美的三雕,不过如今已经成了网红打卡照的地方,著名的“推窗”和“美人靠”都在这里。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvMmNkZjhmZDIyOTVjNDA0MmJhNWYxYWM1NDQ1NzdiMzR+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPVhrWHdleGVVcHdadHJNdTRxVEJ1VDdjZSUyRk1rJTNE.webp)
白天有打工的村妇在这里卖烤年糕,假装她们还住在这里似的,到了晚上就收摊下班了。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvNWM1NmFmNjNjYzdhNDQ1YTk4NTM5ZGY5MDBlYmMxN2Z+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPWNyMHl3eXM2YnRNWExJUUVVa1FTQ3JLMUwySSUzRA.webp)
二层是古时小姐的卧房。徽州的建筑一般都为2-3层,一般来说一层中间为厅堂,两侧有长辈或屋主的卧室,二层为晚辈或女眷的卧室,这样就能在地狭人稠的山间将家庭成员的空间分开。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvMjRmOWZmMTMxZDMyNDQ2MjgyMDBkMzUxMzFhNDY4YWZ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPWVuTkxpdldoREJ5RDhqMFNaJTJCVyUyQkxITHl4JTJCNCUzRA.webp)
美人靠就在二层能看到风景的位置,古时女子讲究大门不出、二门不迈,她们只能倚靠在二层的围栏座椅上看外面的风景,“美人靠”便由此得名。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvYzEzMDk3MjA5MGVhNDVmOWIwM2RkMTMyNjc3ZTNiMzl+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPWIlMkZVcGxRVnNkQ1E1cG9ZbDFFM3RuYXdPeHhBJTNE.webp)
美人靠对面的桌上还有当时裹脚女子穿的鞋,那个时候对女人的身体和精神都是摧残。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvOGY0MjE3NGY2MGJmNDMxMjgwYWJiYmNiOWRlYmI4OGR+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPUphQUNkVmpaMnk1S1YzVFFvUHdVRmVJTldTcyUzRA.webp)
晚上坐在美人靠这里可以看到整个篁岭村亮灯的样子。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvZWI1ZmQzOGI4ZTYwNGI1Y2JlZmFkMDczNDMwOTAwYzd+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPSUyRmtHZ0lzdWt1cGZ2Y1RpQlE5dVRkeVNWdTQ4JTNE.webp)
美人靠旁边就是很多视频拍推窗的位置。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvZDFmNmQxMmFkNzU5NDU5YTk2OWE3ZTA0ZGQzY2JlNjJ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPTNZUHV6ZDhPcnJncE12UyUyQnV5cTA1JTJCdDdlTG8lM0Q.webp)
一早一晚,我们都推了一下。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvNjRkMmM1N2Q5ZTIxNDcwOGJkYzNjM2M0YTJhYjEzNDF+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPXZBM1gwUWRPbDJFenR3bUhZQTBrWDdScnN5SSUzRA.webp)
五桂堂里拍艺术照倒是不受天气的影响,但总觉得有些幽怨。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvNGRkNWEwZDAyMTg3NDkxODg2NTUzZDZmNjVjZTZiZWF+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPU0lMkZmU1htRGE4b0d3cGJvSjk5V2FBbHQ0c2hRJTNE.webp)
我还是更喜欢在晒工坊观景台拍阳光下晒秋的愉悦感。不过这里拍照的人超级多,除非在早晨大批游客还没坐索道上来的时候。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvM2EzOTRiODNhMjQwNDE0MjhlNTA0MjZiNTBkMzg5MGF+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPWNFUUE2bGN6NzlrMHVLOEt2SnNvS3Q4VkRHSSUzRA.webp)
我们现在看到的晒秋美景其实对于古人而言,不过是想尽办法在恶劣的地理、自然环境中生存的结果。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvYzMwYmU2YjZmMzIxNDY3ZGJhY2Q4ZWZiNmQxMTAwYWF+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPVpjRnlpaHc5ODFpaElSd0JqOVNYVlhQSFlMOCUzRA.webp)
历史上我国北方曾有数次战乱,从而导致了衣冠南渡,从中原避乱而来世家大族陆续来到山地环绕的古徽州一带,他们将这里看作是与外隔绝的世外桃源。早期的移民多集中在古徽州北部条件相对较好的黟县盆地和休歙盆地,可这里“七山一水一分田,一分道路和庄园”的土地承载能力有限,随着人口繁衍、增加,再迁来的人只能向南部山林更多的祁门、婺源扩进。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvMzM3ZmY3YzU0NWJlNGNlYzgzMzgxMTQ1OTUwOGUyNTF+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPXlwN3RYeVVoQ1NvT09uSk5tNE8wU1ZTYnM5ZyUzRA.webp)
不过人的观念总会因环境而变化,古徽州人的祖先千里迢迢为避世而来,而后人则一直教育子孙要“寒窗苦读”,为的就是走出这群山。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvMDMwZjRiMWVjMzU4NDJkMGI5Zjg2ODM0Njc3NGM4NzZ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPWx6cWFIODA4dnEzSjhYdWlRbzN4NG1EQnREbyUzRA.webp)
晚上的晒工坊观景台人不多,因为大部分游客都要赶最后的索道下山,但晚上就不适合拍人像。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvNDJkMzQ0MWRiZjMyNGI0OThiNDNkYTRiNmE1Y2I0NTN+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPWJFdTh3SzJNcSUyRkJ5Q09zJTJCSkZ6eVU0dFlieW8lM0Q.webp)
晒工坊观景台也有一处能拍推窗的地方,这个画面拍出来也蛮漂亮的,满满的丰收喜人景象。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvZjVjNWE5MTBjYmM0NGEwMzk2YWJhOWEzZTE0OTM3N2J+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPVA3MmlYJTJGeFlkb2Qxck9sOXZrRG5QJTJCaGk0JTJGZyUzRA.webp)
如果是秋天,从晒工坊观景台往下走有一段路的枫叶也很美。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvNzA5NzBlMDlmOTkxNDk5MzkyN2FlNDcwMTk3MTlhMTZ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPVlDclJrZHFSRTZlV3dMZEtTUDMyODVsMEQ5ZyUzRA.webp)
人工打造过的篁岭确实美,但少了真实的烟火气,就像今天的大理和丽江古城,不过想想迁到山下的村民也应该由此受益了吧。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvZDU2OWM0N2E0MWY0NDAwZGFjZjNkODI0NmUwY2ZjNWF+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPVBub2tvTW1XcCUyRk9LMHFHUWxBdzZjd0FuQ2hBJTNE.webp)
从晒工坊观景台往天街的方向是一路下台阶,中间也有看村子全景的平台,这里可以看到有中国地图的网红墙。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvOTEwZjkzYzFmNzk0NGM0NGFlZjE0ZTc5MWUwODkzN2R+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPVhiUHNXc0xYeHU2bmswOFc4OGRtUGslMkZCbVhvJTNE.webp)
晚上拍照打卡点的晒盘都会被打工的村妇收进屋子,怕下雨或被早上的雾水打湿变坏了,毕竟都是景区的成本。没被收回的地方就是酒店的客房,那些是定期更换的。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvODg5Y2Q1NjczN2E1NGNhMmFiYTYyZWExYjU4ZjRkM2J+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPWtzRVVUblA4azRTUWs2bWhYZWMwUG55bUVFbyUzRA.webp)
一路下来会路过怪屋,所谓怪屋就是把天地布景对调了,这样拍出照片后反转过来就好像是在倒立。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvNTc4YmQ4ODRlZjQ1NDRhYTgwYmJmNjNhMzAyZDVmYzN+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPWtyWVNvN2R0TFFabHBRQXJFaXhNdDliODhmYyUzRA.webp)
怪屋其实和篁岭的整体氛围很不符,当然理解景区为了噱头吸引游客,但若能做些与当地文化相关的才会保住篁岭的灵魂。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvNzJiMzE2YWJmN2VkNDliNjgyMzY3ODNiOWQzMTNhYTF+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPVUyZHc1NlZtNlFVUW1JZHNuZCUyRnFaZ0tqNWlnJTNE.webp)
顺着路走,这个拍丰收果实的小屋也蛮出片的,但人多时也得排队拍照。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvNmMxNjUwMmRjYzQwNDg3MDgyZDIzNzcwMDM2N2I4OTV+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPXpXbmtVV3hMOWlYMXlNRTRaOHV5dSUyQjhrakNFJTNE.webp)
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvOGY5NjNkOGJlYzFjNDU1Yjg5YzY0MjE3MTJhZjMwZTZ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPXR3RVFUcHFXMUw0a1lNOFFJaVlySmclMkJoMURNJTNE.webp)
之所以篁岭很早就有了架晒、挂晒农作物的传统,其实还是因为平地太少了,于是人们就想出在顶层楼板处挑出木条以形成晒场,没想到几百年后竟成了一道靓丽的风景。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvMjFhNDE3N2Q1YWRmNDA5M2IzMjFjY2RmMjc2ODM1NDV+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPXRaRTlYQllwOUxUenZaUTZ6TjhmN0FqejRUUSUzRA.webp)
走到天街处继续往下走,可以发现有一些布景的屋子里没什么人,完全不用排队拍照,景色还好。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMjYtc2lnbi50b3V0aWFvaW1nLmNvbS90b3MtY24taS02dzlteTBrc3ZwLzEyMjM4MTc0NDIxYzRkNzY4NDdlNTE1Mzk5NzRhZGM3fm5vb3AuaW1hZ2U/X2l6PTU4NTU4JmZyb209YXJ0aWNsZS5wY19kZXRhaWwmbGszcz05NTMxOTJmNCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTcxOTY5OTIxMCZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT1sWnEyeUxTYjF2NVpQd0M1TzhMVURXd0NJaWclM0Q.webp)
随手找个篮子当道具拍出来效果会更好。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvZDFiZWJmMjgzMDA1NGUxNjkxZDFlNjE1N2ZjZjA2YTh+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPUJXU2lhUnhuNDk1WUk3SEp3enlBTjlLZVVEZyUzRA.webp)
秋天的梯田叠翠铺绿,春天这里会开满油菜花。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvMzM4MDBmYmE3YTM4NGFiMmI2ZGVmNTM1NDZjNzM3Nzh+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPTUyTG9kWWFqSDRCQlIlMkZtSVclMkY0endiWURwamclM0Q.webp)
在篁岭做一日村妇。从今天起,做一个幸福的人,晒秋、晒被,周游世界。从今天起,关心玉米和辣椒,我有一所房子,面朝梯田,稻谷飘香。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvZTlkYzZhOTlhMGYwNGFlYTllODczYjJmOGRlNGZhNjh+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPU80VURuQnRQMXlNSGxKb0ElMkI0VlZmYmpseERNJTNE.webp)
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvYjVlNDA2MzI1NTQwNDE1NDg1MzhjNTBkMzliZDQyNTR+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPURTRkdka0lHQ2xVVkpEbUgzZGQzOSUyQnROVEhNJTNE.webp)
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvN2MzN2U5MDVmN2M3NDgwMWFmYTJiMDliOGZjODViY2N+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPWdqRkVaTG1EcjljN2UyTTJmaCUyQkMybVVERmF3JTNE.webp)
秋天的柿子,祝大家都事事平安。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvNDhiNTk5NzIxN2YzNDMxNjg2YmI5MzdiNzIzYTk0NTJ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPWdLa1VpS1NDR01mMUU0enNmOENvVjJNUFNEcyUzRA.webp)
拍完照去天街近距离看网红地图墙,天街实际上就是一条商业街,满是餐馆和商铺,不过卖的东西缺少了些特色,赶上饭点的话可以吃个饭。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvMmQzMTdiZGRiYTMyNDc3MzhlZGQ4MDFlOWYyNTZkMDR+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPWxPYkhvMWxsM1NyNEFxRjYwTktFRGEzZ2p5USUzRA.webp)
天街上的吃的不算太贵,但也不便宜,臭鳜鱼128元,篁岭晒秋98元,粉蒸肉58元,糊豆腐28元,山野小香菇36元,婺源子糕32元,小香菇很鲜,其它的味道就中规中矩,篁岭晒秋不要点,中看不中吃。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvMDdiNmIwOWNlYmRmNDk2ZDk4OTlkM2E1NzUwMjIwMGJ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPVRsaDJqU2RkNEdzJTJGWUtqcUFUNW9SR0xGTXBjJTNE.webp)
顺着天街一直往游客中心的方向走,会看到一条向下走的水街,不过都是人工打造的,悬浮屋就在水街的最下面,走到那里还要顺着石阶再走上来。老爸老妈腿脚不好,我们就没下去。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvMDM1NjQ4NjA0OGIzNDM3ZTk0YTlmZDI5MzcxMmFmYWJ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPXllVCUyQndTSkZmZ0k4Q1VkWTl0UlVUNG9taktNJTNE.webp)
另外还有一个玻璃栈道在天街的另一头,就是梯田那头,那边也有一个上下山的索道,我们因为要开车下山所以没过去。
最后说一下住,景区里的住宿分价格较高的晒秋美宿和稍微便宜些的天街酒店,晒秋美宿基本上都为独栋的老宅,我想着难道带老爸老妈来一次,便订了个3人住的上下两层的老宅私墅,1660元,含3人的门票和缆车。如果是天街酒店,两人住的标间也要500以上,还不包含门票。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvZDE5MDk4MDdiOWUzNDU2MDg5NjI3YTc4MGZiMjk0M2N+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPUdjJTJCUVdwTDZMSFY3MEMlMkJweTBWTGx4OEgyeEklM0Q.webp)
外面看着是老宅,但里面的硬件条件和陈设都很不错,在二层可以躺在床上欣赏晒秋的美景,就是价格贵,以及一层单人住的卧室空调有点弱。其实篁岭玩下来也就半天时间,如果当天来的天气好,完全没必要住一晚。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvOGNjMjJiOTUzY2JhNDRkMDgyYzAyYzgyNzRlOGUwZjh+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPTglMkZTQTRYQUdkZUIxRGQ2VWxnV3FkNHhCbjl3JTNE.webp)
第二天中午退房后我们在山下景区外的餐馆吃的饭,价格和景区里差不多,味道也一般。这几天一直吃徽州菜,感觉各家做的口味都差不多,不像其他菜系,滋味好坏有天壤之别。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLTZ3OW15MGtzdnAvMGM2MmQ1ZWI2NzNkNDk3YjliYWM1YzhkMTU1MjdiOWN+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZsazNzPTk1MzE5MmY0JngtZXhwaXJlcz0xNzE5Njk5MjEwJngtc2lnbmF0dXJlPUdxJTJGT3J6Mk1SZFRqQVd2MDFzNHJodGllZ0xNJTNE.webp)
下一篇我们去山东拜孔庙。不想跟团!也不想穷游!怎么用最经济的费用在旅途中享受最棒的体验?更多既舒适又全面的自助游、自驾游,尽请关注游走在感性与理智间的“饕餮小娘子”。
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